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"It's
a world of laughter, it's a world of tears. It's a world of
hopes, it's a world of fears..." Mini plastic figurines
spinning and twirling to the amazement of young children and
especially my Aunt Mary who will remain ageless to protect
her professional reputation. She loves that ride. We must've
ridden it five times. Maybe it's how cute the girls from Ireland
look doing a jig (with no potatoes in sight) or that damn
song? Or the supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, decadent,
daydreamy perfection? Or how well people seem to get along
in Disney's fantasy world?
"I
knew it wouldn't be fun. I knew I'd cry. My dad tried
to prepare me. He knew it would be bad. But I didn't know
it'd be like Disney World."
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But Cinderella's
castle is not lying in ruins. The real world is. My dad's
office is. For some insane and sadistic reason I thought going
to 'Ground Zero' would be cathartic. Yeah, that's a big no.
1:15pm- My distant relatives, my mom and I pile into the minivan.
2:30pm- Parked at the Harrison, NJ path station.
3:07pm- Arrived at Ground Zero.
3:15pm- The hot pokers were jabbed into my side.
I knew
it wouldn't be fun. I knew I'd cry. My dad tried to prepare
me. He knew it would be bad. But I didn't know it'd be like
Disney World. It was not supposed to be a place where smiles
are a reflex, like turning your rubber neck at a four car
pileup. There was no flowery theme music for my Aunt Mary
to butcher, only the distant, silent memories of Broadway.
People
were posing their kids in front of the wood barriers that
surround the site, with cranes in the background. And the
very same hustler you looked down your nose at in July, (he
made you late to your front row mezzanine seats to The Producers)
is now making you proud to be an American...in your red, white,
and blue beanie. Or if you or your mourning relatives are
in need of a Fraud-a purse or a "Rolex" for the
low price of "twen-de dolla's" go to the nearest
corner.
From this
point you will get on the ride (so to speak) in approximately
2 hours. I waded through a mob of winter coats until my heart
and stomach could take it no longer.
3:45pm-
I stopped telling off the venders and sightseers because the
tears in my eyes started giving me frostbite.
3:50pm- I begged my mommy to let me go back to Harrison by
myself (grandpa lives there).
3:53pm- I got lost in the crowd and asked a police officer
where the path train was.
3:53:15pm- An ambitious photographer took my picture while
I was crying and asking the cop for directions. (A great picture
to pull at reader's heartstrings.)
3:53:35pm- I stopped myself from harming the nice photographer.
4:10pm- I boarded the path back to real life.
After
I had recovered, in the loosest sense of the word, I went
back. Into the temple, with moneychangers at every corner.
I made myself be a reporter, not wholly human.
I spoke
with a few sightseers, including Richard McDonough, a music
teacher and church worship leader from Williamsburg, Virginia.
He, his wife, Robin, and three children, Rachel, 18, Chris,
15, and Heidi, 11, all braved the frigid January weather without
complaint.
He was
surprised by what he saw, or didn't see. "I was trying
to picture the two buildings, what was here, all the devastation."
He thought Ground Zero looked more like a construction site,
than a recovery site. "It was totally empty. I saw nothing.
There was only a hole in the ground." While waiting in
line for 1 hour and 45 minutes, the McDonough family saw people
from many different countries who were "concerned with
what happened to America." McDonough thought the observation
deck allowed Americans "to start to hope again."
Enough time had passed to allow wounds to heal. It still "brought
up emotions of anger, thanksgiving [that no one in his family
was hurt], and fear [for the future]." Overall Richard
McDonough was happy to have visited Ground Zero with his family
instead of going on a conventional vacation.
Perhaps
the location wasn't as close to his heart, but his hope helped
me see. I stopped my crying and saw September 11th as a historical
event, not a personal one. I am not a victim. But why am I
unable to get over this single date in billions of years of
history? Maybe this site is fantasy to those not so close
to it? And seeing, smelling, and breathing it in is like a
7-year-old shaking Minnie's gloved hand for the first time.
Maybe fantasy is reality and there is no explanation or distinction
to be found. Since the average tourist helped and confused
me, I decided to step it up a notch and seek a professional's
opinion. Maybe logic could help me be objective? I called
Matt Higgins, the Vice-President of Communications for the
Lower Manhattan District of the Mayor's office. This former
Press Secretary, under former New York City Mayor, Rudy Guiliani
witnessed the events of September 11th as they happened. His
newly appointed position was established to deal with the
constant need for information about Ground Zero. When it comes
to a question about the cemetery that is Lower-Manhattan,
Matt is the guy to ask. If you can get a hold of him.
Tracking
down Mr. Higgins was by no means an easy task. His secretary
and I were beginning to develop a rapport. And as a politician,
he gave political answers to my personal questions. In my
five-rapidly-dwindling-minutes I shared my story and concerns
with Higgins. He admitted "people question having a memorial
there [former World Trade Center site]. Our feeling is as
long as they're respectful...this is a place people will want
to see and reflect on what it is to be an American."
He equated the 9-11 crash sites with the Pearl Harbor and
Vietnam memorials. Although those who lost their lives were
mostly civilians, in his eyes they were soldiers and casualties
of war.
"After
I had recovered, in the loosest sense of the word, I went
back. Into the temple, with moneychangers at every corner.
I made myself be a reporter, not wholly human."
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Higgins
predicts that the Ground Zero site will be around for "some
time longer." (Do you see? Political. Grrr.) Tributes
have been established elsewhere to offset the tourist phenomenon
that's surrounding Ground Zero. Interested parties can visit
Battery Park in Manhattan to see the sphere that once sat
in a fountain in the plaza of the WTC. Higgins believed "the
sphere will be in place indefinitely."
Six months
after September 11th architects Richard Nash Gould, Julian
Laverdiere, and Paul Myoda flicked the switch on their "Tribute
in Light." On March 11, 2002 at 7p.m. two beams of light
glistened in the night sky, filling the gap in our hearts.
A light spectacular with enough power to call upon and remember
a hero or two. Our Gotham City.
7:17p.m.
SEA BRIGHT, NJ- We looked over the river. At our skyline.
Heel
slides into heel
Arches hover above powdered glass
Toes curl to a point.
His footsteps
Deeper than mine.
Steeled-toed boots
weighed with life
leave ridges for bare feet
to make their own impressions.
The ocean's rings
extend leagues and erase
the memories.
Of the day my hero
was one.
And it all became too real
in the stars and clouds
to look anywhere but down.
Even though
we couldn't see clearly through the haze we knew they were
there. We knew that no matter what is done in the future,
no memorial will ever be enough. And no matter how irreverent
it may seem, if one person can find solace in sensation, it
is worth every elbow that was jabbed in my side.
My memorial
is perfect. Every moment of everyday he takes a breath will
last longer and mean more than Walt's imagination.
I've never
really liked "It's a Small World." It's too picture
perfect, a visual spectacle for those with a heart condition.
It's a one-time ride. The bouncing buggies of "Mr. Toad's
Wild Ride" are more my style. You go through hell, then
the doors part, sending you out, into a sea of fanny packs,
into the concrete jungle.
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